Every week we have Down & Dirty, where we break down our favorite unique seasonal fruits and veggies and more.
Today: Throughout this month, we’ll be stocking up on fresh herbs to get our spring fix. Then the tarragon.
Name something “king” (see in particular: Beers and Burgers) and you brace yourself for disappointment – they rarely live up to their real name. Fortunately, when the French do something, it tends to be more promising. Tarragon is known as “the king of herbs” in France, and in this case, it is a well-deserved title. Tarragon is a mainstay of French cuisine and an essential ingredient in Béarnaise sauce and the combination of herbs called fine herbs.
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But his royal status has not been transferred to the United States, at least not yet. When we add fresh herbs to a dish, we’re much more likely to go for basil, chives, or even cilantro, and we only get tarragon when the recipe calls for it.
It is time for that to change. This spring, promise to start using this versatile anise-scented herb more often.
If you hate licorice that doesn’t necessarily mean you’re going to hate tarragon too, give it a try. It doesn’t have a strong flavor; Kristen describes it “like liquorice cooled and gone to the country.”
“The scent is a magical elixir of anise, filled with the promise of other herbs that will follow closely: celery, savory, chervil and chives.”
If you’re wondering why someone would bother with less flavorful tarragon, the “much stronger habit” means they really like poor soil conditions and can put up with neglect and drought. So, not only can Russian tarragon thrive in harsh conditions, it can also be grown from seeds; French tarragon rarely produces viable seeds, so new plants must be propagated by root division or stem cuttings.
A final type, Spanish tarragon, is not of the same kind as the first two, but it is still a better substitute for French tarragon than Russian tarragon (sorry, Russian tarragon). It has wider leaves and is slightly sweeter and sweeter.
Store the tarragon in the refrigerator, rolled loosely in a damp paper towel, then loosely placed in a plastic bag or plastic-lined water jar. Tarragon is not suitable for drying because it loses a lot of its flavor. If you want to save some for later, follow Deborah Madison’s suggestions: “Turning tarragon into herb butter or soaking twigs in oil or vinegar is perhaps a better way to preserve its flavor,” at least for a limited time. “
Once you’re ready to start using your fresh tarragon, peel the leaves (2, pictured above) from the stems (1, extra tall) and cut them (3, above) as needed. Don’t forget to add it at the end of cooking; otherwise, its flavor will be diminished.
Here are 9 foods that could use more tarragon:
Potatoes
If you’re not sure what to think about tarragon, try it in comforting potato dishes first, like a potato salad or a stretched meal in one pan with a shoulder. pork, new potatoes and peas.
Eggs
Add fresh tarragon to all kinds of egg dishes, from scrambled to stuffed.
Seafood
Tarragon pairs well with a variety of fish, from salmon and tuna to snapper, and it even works in a dip for dipping fish sticks. Also use fresh tarragon with bivalves like clams and scallops.
Poultry
Try fresh tarragon in any type of chicken dish you can think of (chicken salad, chicken pie, chicken topped with a creamy tarragon sauce) and duck dishes too.
Salsas
Then add the tarragon to the sauces, all the sauces: pesto, aioli, gribiche sauce and green goddess vinaigrette. Then switch to the nuts and add the tarragon to a delicious caper whipped cream, a lemon bean dip, a walnut and anchovy sauce, and this semi-German green sauce.
Cooked vegetables
Tarragon has a fairly strong flavor, which pairs well with roasted, grilled, or lightly braised vegetables (plus lots of olive oil and salt!). I crave these little roasted turnips with a mustard shallot vinaigrette; roasted asparagus with creamy lemon sauce and poached egg; Genius Butter Whole Roasted Chives and I’m sure you know grilled artichokes don’t need more than a good aioli; this recipe is full of tarragon.
By the way, tarragon is so powerful combined with greens in a creamy soup, like these all season soups: asparagus and yogurt (spring in summer), zucchini with garlic (summer in autumn), celeriac and apple. (fall in winter).
Pasta
Just like fresh fennel with liquorice or sausage stuffed with fennel seeds go wonderfully with pasta, so does fresh tarragon. This green lasagna (which also calls for fresh fennel!) Leans towards those flavors of anise, while this lemon mushroom and hazelnut garlic spaghetti pairs herbs with asparagus. Are you not a fan of asparagus? Try the tarragon pasta with summer squash topped with ricotta.
Cocktails and other drinks
When it comes to mixing herbs like tarragon in cocktails (and mocktails!), Bet on crisp citrus flavors. You can just toss a handful into your favorite highball, but if you want a recipe to start, try a grapefruit tarragon gin and tonic or a floral melon and white rum mojito. PS – it’s just as exciting on the classic lemonade.
Dessert
If basil and sage are making their entry into your desserts, welcome tarragon to the party! We’ll start with this tarragon butter peach pie, with a tablespoon or three of grapefruit, tangerine, lemon and tarragon sorbet. And since fruit desserts are clearly the way to make tarragon shine, why not fill the freezer with a batch of strawberry and tarragon popsicles while you’re at it.
Salsa gribiche photo by Eric Moran, all other photos by Mark Weinberg